User-friendly interface: Blue Iris provides users with an easy-to-use interface that makes it simple to monitor, record, and manage multiple cameras.ĩ. Analytics: Blue Iris provides users with a range of analytics tools that allow them to monitor their cameras in real-time and analyze historical data.Ĩ. Customizable storage: Blue Iris provides users with a range of storage options, including local storage, cloud storage, external storage, and more.ħ. Notification alerts: Blue Iris can send users notifications via email or text message when motion is detected or when an alarm is triggered.Ħ. Scheduling: Users can set up schedules to record video at specific times or on specific days.ĥ. Motion detection: Blue Iris can detect and record motion or sound, allowing users to monitor their property for any suspicious activity.Ĥ. Live streaming: Blue Iris allows users to view live streaming of all their cameras in real-time, as well as playback any recorded footage.ģ. Support for a wide range of cameras: Blue Iris supports a wide range of cameras, including IP cameras, webcams, HD cameras, analog cameras, and more.Ģ. With Blue Iris, users can take advantage of the latest in video surveillance technology, allowing them to keep a close eye on their home, business, or any other property they may want to monitor.īlue Iris allows users to easily monitor multiple cameras in real-time. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.Blue Iris is a comprehensive video security and surveillance software solution that provides users with a wide range of advanced features and capabilities for monitoring, recording, and managing multiple cameras. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.Īfter every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.ĭo not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.īut adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. You have to play with it for your field of view. In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene? The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. ![]() That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared. Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. ![]() Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.īut first, run H264, smart codec off, CBR, and 8192 bitrate to start, along with 15 FPS and 15 i-frame. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. ![]() 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Any camera can be forced in color and look great for a static image, but motion is a blur. Surveillance cameras rarely do good on default auto settings like exposure/shutter at night. ![]() As mentioned, the settings are unique to each field of view and available light.
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